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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.